There is something undeniably fascinating about a GMT watch.
Perhaps it is the extra hand quietly circling the dial every 24 hours.
Perhaps it is the connection to vintage aviation and the golden era of travel.
Or perhaps it is simply the feeling that your watch is linked to somewhere beyond your everyday life.
Over the last few years, GMT watches have become one of the most popular categories in modern watchmaking. From Swiss luxury brands to independent microbrands, collectors everywhere seem to be searching for the perfect GMT.
But many watch enthusiasts are surprised to discover that not all GMT watches work the same way.
In fact, there are several different types of GMT movements on the market today — each designed for a different experience, lifestyle, and price point.
At Ferro & Company, we have been quietly developing our own GMT watch for the last six months, carefully studying vintage GMT designs, movement technologies, proportions, and what truly makes a GMT watch enjoyable to wear.
And while our GMT project is still under wraps for now, we thought this would be the perfect time to explore the fascinating world of GMT movements and why collectors continue to love them decades after they first appeared.
What Is a GMT Watch?
A GMT watch is designed to track two or more time zones simultaneously.
Traditionally, a GMT watch features:
- an hour hand
- a minute hand
- a seconds hand
- and an additional 24-hour GMT hand
That GMT hand rotates once every 24 hours and points toward either:
- a fixed 24-hour scale
- or a rotating 24-hour bezel
This allows the wearer to track a second time zone while still reading local time normally.
GMT watches originally became popular during the rise of international commercial aviation in the 1950s. Pilots flying across continents needed a practical way to track both local time and home time.
But over time, GMT watches evolved into something much more than simple tools.
They became symbols of travel, adventure, exploration, and connection.
Even today, many people who rarely travel internationally still love GMT watches because of what they represent.
A GMT watch feels like possibility on the wrist.
The Two Main Types of GMT Movements
Today, most GMT watches fall into two major categories:
- True GMT / Traveler GMT
- Caller GMT / Office GMT
And while both track multiple time zones, they function very differently.
True GMT / Traveler GMT
The True GMT — often called a Traveler GMT — is generally considered the more sophisticated type of GMT movement.
This movement is specifically designed for people frequently crossing time zones.
With a Traveler GMT, the local hour hand can jump independently in one-hour increments without stopping the watch.
Why does this matter?
Imagine landing in another country after a long flight.
Instead of resetting the entire watch, you simply jump the local hour hand forward or backward while the movement continues running accurately.
Your home time remains untouched on the GMT hand.
This makes Traveler GMT watches incredibly convenient for international travel.
Collectors often describe the experience as smooth, satisfying, and highly refined.
Popular Traveler GMT movements include:
- Miyota 9075
- Rolex GMT calibers
- Grand Seiko GMT movements
- Omega Co-Axial GMT calibers
Over the last two years, the Miyota 9075 movement has become especially important for independent watch brands because it introduced a relatively affordable True GMT option to the market.
Before that, Traveler GMT watches were usually found only in much higher price ranges.
Caller GMT / Office GMT
The Caller GMT — also known as an Office GMT — works differently.
Instead of independently adjusting the local hour hand, the GMT hand itself adjusts independently.
This movement style is often more practical for people who stay in one location while tracking another time zone remotely.
For example:
- business owners working internationally
- remote workers
- collectors with family overseas
- or enthusiasts who simply enjoy following another region’s time
Imagine living in Vancouver while regularly speaking with suppliers in Switzerland or Japan.
A Caller GMT allows you to keep your local time normally while setting the GMT hand to track another country.
Simple.
Functional.
Very useful.
The term “Office GMT” sometimes unfairly makes these movements sound inferior.
But in reality, many collectors actually prefer them for everyday use.
Caller GMT movements also tend to offer advantages such as:
- lower cost
- slimmer watch cases
- easier servicing
- and strong reliability
Popular Caller GMT movements include:
- Seiko NH34
- ETA 2893
- Sellita SW330
- Soprod C125
The Seiko NH34 in particular has recently become extremely popular among microbrands because it offers an affordable automatic GMT solution with excellent reliability.
It has helped bring GMT watches into more accessible price ranges than ever before.
Quartz GMT Movements: The Underrated Option
While automatic GMT watches receive most of the attention, quartz GMT movements deserve far more respect than they often receive.
In many ways, quartz GMT watches are incredibly practical.
They are:
- highly accurate
- travel-friendly
- lightweight
- affordable
- and often thinner than mechanical GMT watches
For frequent travelers, quartz GMT watches can actually make a lot of sense.
No winding.
No time drift.
No worrying about power reserve.
Simply grab the watch and go.
Some enthusiasts may prefer the emotional charm of a mechanical movement, but quartz GMT watches remain an excellent option for everyday wear and travel practicality.
And interestingly, vintage-inspired quartz GMT watches are beginning to gain popularity again as collectors rediscover the appeal of slim and reliable travel watches.
Why GMT Watches Became So Popular Again
GMT watches are no longer just pilot tools.
Today, they have become emotional objects.
Part of their popularity comes from nostalgia.
Vintage GMT watches from the 1960s and 1970s carried a very distinctive personality:
- colorful bezels
- airline-inspired designs
- sporty steel cases
- integrated bracelets
- and a futuristic optimism tied to the jet age
Back then, international travel still felt glamorous and exciting.
Airports looked elegant.
Airlines had character.
And GMT watches became symbols of modern exploration.
That emotional connection still exists today.
Even if someone never leaves their city, a GMT watch still creates the subtle feeling of movement and possibility.
Perhaps that is why collectors continue to love them.
Not because they desperately need a second time zone —
but because GMT watches remind them of somewhere beyond the everyday routine.
Choosing the Right GMT Movement
So which GMT movement is best?
Honestly, there is no universal answer.
It depends entirely on how you plan to use the watch.
If you travel internationally often, a True GMT may offer the smoother and more enjoyable experience.
If you mainly track another country while staying local, a Caller GMT may actually make more sense.
And if practicality and convenience matter most, quartz GMT watches deserve serious consideration too.
What matters most is the overall experience:
- the comfort
- the proportions
- the design
- the movement feel
- and the emotional connection the watch creates
Because at the end of the day, watches are never purely rational purchases.
People buy watches because they connect with them emotionally.
The movement simply becomes part of the story.
Ferro & Company’s Upcoming GMT Watch
For the last six months, we have been carefully developing our own GMT watch at Ferro & Company.
And honestly, it has become one of our most exciting projects yet.
We have been exploring:
- vintage 1970s-inspired GMT aesthetics
- integrated bracelet concepts
- classic traveler watch proportions
- different movement platforms
- and how to create a GMT watch that truly feels like Ferro
Not simply another GMT watch —
but one with personality, warmth, and emotional connection.
A watch inspired by the golden era of travel, motorsport, and vintage design.
While we are not quite ready to reveal everything yet, we can say this:
The Ferro GMT project is getting very close.
And we cannot wait to share it with fellow enthusiasts soon.
Want to Be First to Know?
If you would like to be among the very first to see the upcoming Ferro GMT watch, make sure to subscribe to our newsletter below.
Subscribers will receive:
- early previews
- behind-the-scenes development updates
- launch announcements
- and early access information once the GMT is officially introduced
The journey has already begun.
And we are incredibly excited to finally share it with the Ferro community soon.
Join the Ferro newsletter below and be part of the journey.
